Turmeric Dye

State: Assam (Common in other North-Eastern states as well)

Turmeric, scientifically known as Curcuma longa, is a perennial plant native to South Asia. In the context of natural dyes, turmeric is one of the most ancient and widely used coloring agents, revered for its vivid golden yellow hue. The use of turmeric as a dye dates back thousands of years, traditionally used to color fabrics for religious and ceremonial purposes in India. Its ability to provide a bright and striking color, combined with its natural antiseptic properties, makes it an ideal candidate for handloom and natural dye industries. In the North-East, where sustainable and eco-friendly textile practices are thriving, turmeric dye is increasingly popular for its organic and environmentally conscious properties.

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Turmeric Dye

Introduction:

Turmeric, scientifically known as Curcuma longa, is a perennial plant native to South Asia. In the context of natural dyes, turmeric is one of the most ancient and widely used coloring agents, revered for its vivid golden yellow hue. The use of turmeric as a dye dates back thousands of years, traditionally used to color fabrics for religious and ceremonial purposes in India. Its ability to provide a bright and striking color, combined with its natural antiseptic properties, makes it an ideal candidate for handloom and natural dye industries. In the North-East, where sustainable and eco-friendly textile practices are thriving, turmeric dye is increasingly popular for its organic and environmentally conscious properties.

Description:

Turmeric dye is extracted from the rhizome of the turmeric plant, a member of the ginger family. The rhizomes are harvested, dried, and ground into a fine powder that is then mixed with water to form a paste. This paste, when applied to natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool, imparts a bright golden-yellow color. However, one of the unique characteristics of turmeric dye is its sensitivity to pH levels. This means that by adjusting the pH of the dye bath with acidic or alkaline substances, artisans can achieve a range of shades, from vibrant yellows to deeper, earthier tones.
One challenge with turmeric dye is its relatively low colorfastness, especially when exposed to direct sunlight or alkaline conditions. To overcome this, artisans often employ mordants—substances that bind the dye to the fiber and improve its color retention. Common mordants used with turmeric include alum, iron, and tannin, each of which can also slightly alter the final color. Alum, for example, tends to preserve the bright yellow hue, while iron can create more muted, greenish-yellow tones.
In Assam and other North-Eastern states, turmeric dyeing is often performed using traditional handloom techniques. The dyeing process typically involves submerging the fabric into a large vat of turmeric dye, ensuring that the color saturates the fibers evenly. Once dyed, the fabric is hung to dry in the shade to prevent color fading. Some weavers may combine turmeric with other natural dyes, such as indigo or onion skin, to create more complex color variations.
Turmeric dye is more than just a colorant—it also carries cultural significance. In Assam, for instance, turmeric-dyed fabrics are often associated with religious ceremonies and auspicious occasions. The golden yellow symbolizes purity, prosperity, and the sanctity of life. Furthermore, as an eco-friendly dye, turmeric is a part of the larger movement towards sustainable fashion. Artisans in North-East India who use turmeric and other natural dyes contribute to the preservation of traditional craft practices while promoting environmentally conscious textile production. The rise of turmeric dye in the modern handloom industry is a testament to the enduring appeal of natural materials in the fashion world.
 

Tea Waste Dye

State: Assam

Assam, known for its rich tea plantations, provides an abundant source of tea waste, which is used innovatively in the production of natural dyes. The use of tea waste as a dye is part of the sustainable practices of utilizing agro-waste to reduce environmental impact. Tea waste dye yields a range of brownish and earthy tones that reflect the natural beauty of the North-Eastern landscape. This natural dyeing process not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of handloom products but also plays a significant role in promoting eco-friendly textile practices across the region.

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Tea Waste Dye

Introduction:

Assam, known for its rich tea plantations, provides an abundant source of tea waste, which is used innovatively in the production of natural dyes. The use of tea waste as a dye is part of the sustainable practices of utilizing agro-waste to reduce environmental impact. Tea waste dye yields a range of brownish and earthy tones that reflect the natural beauty of the North-Eastern landscape. This natural dyeing process not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of handloom products but also plays a significant role in promoting eco-friendly textile practices across the region.

Description:

Tea waste dye is obtained from the leftover tea leaves and stems that are discarded after the tea-making process. In Assam, where tea production is a major industry, these wastes are repurposed as a natural dye, reflecting the state’s deep connection to both tea and sustainability. The extraction of dye from tea waste involves boiling the waste in water to create a dark brown liquid. This liquid contains tannins, a natural substance found in tea leaves that binds well with natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. Tannins play a crucial role in enhancing the dye’s adhesion to the fabric, making tea waste dye relatively colorfast compared to other natural dyes.
The shade produced by tea waste dye varies depending on the concentration of tannins in the tea and the duration of the dyeing process. Lighter hues can be achieved by shortening the dyeing time, while darker and richer browns develop with prolonged exposure to the dye bath. Additionally, the use of different mordants, such as alum or iron, can modify the final color. For example, iron mordants may produce deeper, more subdued shades, while alum preserves the natural brown of the tea dye.
In the traditional handloom sector of Assam, tea waste dyeing is a process that honors both the natural resources of the land and the artisanal techniques passed down through generations. After the dye is prepared, the fabric is soaked in the dye bath for a few hours to ensure even color distribution. Once dyed, the fabric is rinsed to remove excess dye and then dried in the shade. This process not only yields beautiful earthy tones but also contributes to the zero-waste movement by reusing what would otherwise be agricultural waste.
Tea waste dye is particularly valued for its environmental benefits. Unlike synthetic dyes, which can be harmful to both the environment and human health due to the chemicals involved, tea waste dye is entirely natural and non-toxic. Its production does not require any additional chemicals or resources, making it a highly sustainable option for eco-conscious consumers. Furthermore, the use of tea waste as a dye helps reduce the environmental burden associated with tea production, as less waste is discarded into landfills.
The growing popularity of tea waste dye in Assam’s handloom industry also aligns with the global trend towards sustainable fashion. Consumers today are increasingly aware of the environmental impact of their clothing choices, and products made with natural dyes like tea waste appeal to those seeking eco-friendly alternatives. By supporting artisans who use tea waste dye, consumers are not only embracing sustainable practices but also helping to preserve the rich cultural heritage of Assam’s textile industry. This natural dye, with its deep connection to the land and its people, continues to inspire both traditional artisans and modern designers alike.
 

Onion Skin Dye

State: Manipur, Nagaland, Assam

Onion skin, often discarded as kitchen waste, has been repurposed in the textile industry as a sustainable natural dye. The skin of onions contains a significant amount of quercetin, a plant pigment that produces a warm, earthy range of colors. In the North-Eastern states of India, particularly Manipur, Nagaland, and Assam, onion skin dye has become increasingly popular among artisans who are embracing eco-friendly dyeing techniques. The dye is used to create subtle golden, orange, or brown hues, depending on the concentration and mordant used, which makes it a versatile choice for natural fabric dyeing.

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Onion Skin Dye

Introduction:

Onion skin, often discarded as kitchen waste, has been repurposed in the textile industry as a sustainable natural dye. The skin of onions contains a significant amount of quercetin, a plant pigment that produces a warm, earthy range of colors. In the North-Eastern states of India, particularly Manipur, Nagaland, and Assam, onion skin dye has become increasingly popular among artisans who are embracing eco-friendly dyeing techniques. The dye is used to create subtle golden, orange, or brown hues, depending on the concentration and mordant used, which makes it a versatile choice for natural fabric dyeing.

Description:

Onion skin dye is obtained from the papery outer layers of onions, which contain natural pigments like quercetin. The dyeing process begins with collecting a significant amount of onion skins, usually from kitchens, markets, or farms. These skins are then boiled in water to release their pigments, creating a rich dye bath that varies in intensity based on the quantity of onion skins and the boiling duration. The liquid is strained to remove the skins, leaving behind a dye solution that can be used on a variety of natural fabrics, such as cotton, silk, and wool.
The color produced by onion skin dye depends largely on the type of mordant used during the dyeing process. For example, using alum as a mordant will produce a golden yellow to light orange color, while iron mordants can deepen the shade into a rich brown. Artisans in the North-East often experiment with different mordants to achieve the desired effect, adding depth and variation to their textiles. The pH level of the dye bath can also affect the final outcome, with acidic environments leading to brighter, warmer hues, while alkaline conditions tend to produce more muted tones.
Onion skin dye is highly favored for its sustainability. It utilizes a waste product that would otherwise be discarded, turning it into a valuable resource for the textile industry. This aligns with the region’s commitment to eco-friendly and zero-waste practices, particularly in states like Manipur and Nagaland, where preserving the natural environment is a cultural priority. By choosing to work with natural dyes like onion skin, artisans can produce textiles that are free from synthetic chemicals, which not only benefits the environment but also ensures that the final product is safe for the wearer, especially for those with sensitive skin.
The process of dyeing with onion skins is relatively simple and accessible, making it a popular choice among small-scale artisans and weavers. The fabric is typically soaked in the dye bath for several hours to allow the color to penetrate deeply into the fibers. Once the desired shade is achieved, the fabric is removed, rinsed, and hung to dry in a shaded area to prevent fading. While onion skin dye is relatively lightfast compared to other natural dyes, it may still fade slightly over time if exposed to prolonged sunlight, especially without the use of mordants.
Onion skin dye has become an important tool in the toolkit of North-Eastern artisans, allowing them to create textiles that reflect the warm, earthy tones of the region’s natural landscape. It is often used to dye traditional garments, scarves, and shawls, adding a touch of rustic elegance to the final product. The growing interest in sustainable fashion has further boosted the popularity of onion skin dye, as more consumers seek out eco-friendly and ethically produced textiles. This ancient practice of natural dyeing, revived and adapted by modern artisans, continues to thrive in the North-East, preserving both the environment and cultural heritage.
 

Indigo Dye

State: Assam, Manipur, Nagaland

Indigo dye is one of the oldest known natural dyes, and its deep, rich blue color has been used to color textiles for thousands of years. Derived from the Indigofera plant, indigo was once considered so valuable that it was referred to as “blue gold.” In the North-Eastern states of India, such as Assam, Manipur, and Nagaland, the use of indigo dye has deep cultural roots, where it is often used in traditional weaving and handloom industries. Indigo dye’s popularity has persisted through the centuries due to its striking visual appeal and strong historical and cultural significance.

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Indigo Dye

Introduction:

Indigo dye is one of the oldest known natural dyes, and its deep, rich blue color has been used to color textiles for thousands of years. Derived from the Indigofera plant, indigo was once considered so valuable that it was referred to as “blue gold.” In the North-Eastern states of India, such as Assam, Manipur, and Nagaland, the use of indigo dye has deep cultural roots, where it is often used in traditional weaving and handloom industries. Indigo dye’s popularity has persisted through the centuries due to its striking visual appeal and strong historical and cultural significance.

Description:

The process of extracting indigo dye from the Indigofera plant is both time-consuming and labor-intensive, but the resulting color makes it worthwhile. The leaves of the indigo plant are harvested and then soaked in water to ferment. During the fermentation process, the plant's natural enzymes break down the compounds within the leaves, converting them into indigotin, the pigment responsible for the characteristic blue hue. After fermentation, the water is drained, and the remaining pigment is oxidized, transforming into indigo dye.
Once the dye is ready, the fabric to be dyed is dipped repeatedly into the indigo vat. The fabric appears greenish when first removed from the dye bath, but as it is exposed to oxygen, the color deepens into the familiar rich blue. This transformation is one of the most magical aspects of working with indigo and is a process cherished by artisans. The depth of the blue can be controlled by the number of dips—the more times the fabric is dipped and oxidized, the darker and more intense the blue will become.
In Assam and Manipur, indigo dyeing has a long tradition, particularly in the handloom sector. Artisans use indigo to dye threads that are later woven into intricate patterns on looms, creating traditional garments, shawls, and other textiles. Indigo-dyed fabrics are prized for their durability and colorfastness, with garments often passed down through generations. The dyeing process, while challenging, is a point of pride for weavers, who view it as both an art and a science.
While indigo is often associated with the iconic blue of denim, it has a wide range of applications in the North-East. The color can vary from pale sky blue to nearly black, depending on the strength of the dye bath and the number of dips. Additionally, indigo can be combined with other natural dyes, such as onion skin or turmeric, to create unique color blends, such as olive green or teal. This versatility has helped maintain indigo’s place as a staple in the natural dye repertoire of North-Eastern artisans.
Culturally, indigo holds significant meaning in many parts of the world, including the North-East. In some communities, indigo garments are worn during festivals or special occasions, symbolizing prosperity, stability, and depth of spirit. The craft of indigo dyeing is also seen as a meditative process, with the repetitive motions of dyeing and oxidizing allowing artisans to connect with their craft on a deeper level. Despite the availability of synthetic dyes, many artisans in the region continue to use natural indigo, recognizing its environmental benefits and its role in preserving traditional dyeing practices.
Indigo dye is a powerful symbol of cultural heritage, sustainability, and craftsmanship in the North-East. As global interest in sustainable and eco-friendly fashion grows, indigo continues to captivate modern designers and consumers alike. Its rich history, combined with its vivid color and eco-friendly production, ensures that indigo remains a cornerstone of natural dyeing practices in the region.
 

Indigo + Onion Skin Dye (Olive Green)

State: Assam, Manipur, Nagaland

The combination of indigo and onion skin dyes offers an intriguing and versatile approach to natural dyeing. While indigo alone produces a deep, rich blue, combining it with the warm, golden tones of onion skin creates unique shades of olive green. This blend reflects the harmonious use of two natural resources—indigo and onion skins—commonly found in Assam, Manipur, and Nagaland. In these states, artisans have developed innovative dyeing techniques that marry these two colors to create intricate and layered shades, enhancing the visual appeal and cultural significance of their textiles.

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Indigo + Onion Skin Dye (Olive Green)

Introduction:

The combination of indigo and onion skin dyes offers an intriguing and versatile approach to natural dyeing. While indigo alone produces a deep, rich blue, combining it with the warm, golden tones of onion skin creates unique shades of olive green. This blend reflects the harmonious use of two natural resources—indigo and onion skins—commonly found in Assam, Manipur, and Nagaland. In these states, artisans have developed innovative dyeing techniques that marry these two colors to create intricate and layered shades, enhancing the visual appeal and cultural significance of their textiles.

Description:

Creating olive green using a combination of indigo and onion skin dyes requires a deep understanding of both dyeing processes. The process typically begins with dyeing the fabric in an onion skin bath, which imparts a golden yellow or brownish hue, depending on the concentration of the dye and the fabric being used. Onion skin dye contains a high level of tannins, which naturally bind well to fibers, making it an ideal base for the dual-dye process. Once the fabric is sufficiently dyed with onion skin, it is then dipped into an indigo vat.
Indigo, when used as a second layer over onion skin dye, reacts with the initial golden tones to produce a range of olive green shades. The depth and richness of the olive green depend on the number of dips in the indigo vat and the strength of the onion skin dye. The more times the fabric is dipped in indigo, the darker and deeper the green becomes. This blending of dyes creates a unique, earthy hue that is not achievable with synthetic dyes, adding to the fabric’s exclusivity and appeal.
Artisans in Assam, Manipur, and Nagaland use this combination of dyes in their handloom products to create textiles with a natural, earthy charm. The olive green produced by the indigo-onion skin blend is often seen in traditional shawls, scarves, and garments. These fabrics are highly prized for their unique color, which symbolizes the lush landscapes and forests of the North-Eastern region. Olive green textiles are particularly popular among consumers looking for eco-friendly and culturally significant products, as this shade is both timeless and deeply connected to the region’s heritage.
The process of creating olive green through this combination requires careful attention to timing and pH levels. Indigo dye is highly sensitive to oxygen and must be handled in an environment with limited exposure to air during the dyeing process. Meanwhile, onion skin dye requires a specific pH level to extract the correct tones. Artisans must balance both processes carefully to ensure the colors blend seamlessly and the final hue is uniform. This technique demonstrates the high level of craftsmanship and skill required in natural dyeing.
Furthermore, the use of natural mordants such as alum or iron can alter the final olive green shade, allowing artisans to produce different variations of the color. For example, using alum as a mordant may result in a lighter, more yellowish green, while iron mordants create deeper, more subdued tones. This versatility allows artisans to experiment with color and create textiles that are both traditional and contemporary.
The combination of indigo and onion skin dyes is also environmentally sustainable. Both dyes are derived from natural, renewable resources, and the dyeing process itself is free from harmful chemicals. This makes the technique particularly appealing to artisans and consumers who prioritize eco-conscious production methods. Additionally, the use of onion skins—often considered waste—contributes to a zero-waste ethos, turning a discarded material into a valuable resource for textile dyeing.
Overall, the blending of indigo and onion skin dyes to create olive green is a testament to the creativity and expertise of North-Eastern artisans. This technique highlights the region’s deep connection to the natural world and its commitment to sustainable craftsmanship. As interest in natural dyes continues to grow, the indigo-onion skin combination stands out as a beautiful and environmentally friendly option for those seeking unique, handcrafted textiles.
 

Charcoal Dye

State: Nagaland, Manipur, Assam

Charcoal dye, extracted from burnt wood or organic matter, is one of the most earthy and environmentally conscious dyes used in the textile industry. In the North-Eastern states of Nagaland, Manipur, and Assam, where sustainability and natural resources are central to traditional practices, charcoal dye is commonly employed to create various shades of grey and black. The use of charcoal in dyeing is not just a modern trend but a revival of ancient techniques that relied on readily available natural resources. Artisans in these states are increasingly turning to charcoal dye to create bold, dramatic textiles that align with the growing demand for eco-friendly products.

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Charcoal Dye

Introduction:

Charcoal dye, extracted from burnt wood or organic matter, is one of the most earthy and environmentally conscious dyes used in the textile industry. In the North-Eastern states of Nagaland, Manipur, and Assam, where sustainability and natural resources are central to traditional practices, charcoal dye is commonly employed to create various shades of grey and black. The use of charcoal in dyeing is not just a modern trend but a revival of ancient techniques that relied on readily available natural resources. Artisans in these states are increasingly turning to charcoal dye to create bold, dramatic textiles that align with the growing demand for eco-friendly products.

Description:

Charcoal dye is made from the ash and charcoal of burned wood, plant materials, or even bones. The charcoal is ground into a fine powder and mixed with water to create a dye solution. In some cases, artisans may use vinegar or other natural acids to help the dye bond to the fabric, enhancing its durability and colorfastness. The resulting dye can vary in intensity from light grey to deep black, depending on the concentration of the charcoal and the fabric being dyed.
The dyeing process typically begins with the preparation of the charcoal. In traditional settings, wood or organic material is burned in a controlled environment, producing a fine, carbon-rich charcoal. This charcoal is then sifted and mixed with water to form a dye bath. For deeper colors, artisans may allow the fabric to soak in the dye bath for an extended period, or they may use multiple layers of dye to build up the color gradually.
Charcoal dyeing is especially popular in the handloom sectors of Nagaland and Manipur, where it is used to create striking patterns on traditional garments and accessories. These textiles often feature geometric or tribal designs that are deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of the region. The bold black and grey tones produced by charcoal dye contrast beautifully with other natural dyes, such as turmeric or indigo, making it a versatile option for weavers and artisans.
One of the advantages of charcoal dye is its sustainability. Charcoal is a renewable resource, and its use in dyeing does not require any synthetic chemicals or additives. Furthermore, the dyeing process itself is non-toxic and eco-friendly, making it an ideal choice for artisans who are committed to minimizing their environmental impact. The use of charcoal dye also aligns with the zero-waste ethos that is becoming increasingly important in the textile industry, as it makes use of by-products from other processes, such as wood burning or cooking.
While charcoal dye produces beautiful, natural colors, it does require careful handling to ensure the color binds to the fabric properly. Natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool tend to absorb the dye well, but they may require pre-treatment with a mordant such as alum or iron to enhance color retention. Without a mordant, the dye may fade over time, particularly when exposed to sunlight or frequent washing. However, when treated correctly, charcoal-dyed fabrics can retain their deep, rich tones for years.
Culturally, the use of charcoal dye in Nagaland and Manipur is often associated with traditional ceremonies and warrior attire. The dark, muted tones produced by charcoal were historically seen as symbols of strength and resilience, particularly in garments worn by tribal leaders and warriors. Today, these traditional associations remain, and charcoal-dyed textiles are still used in ceremonial garments, though they have also found a place in contemporary fashion, where they are valued for their simplicity and sophistication.
As the global fashion industry shifts toward more sustainable practices, charcoal dye is gaining recognition as an eco-friendly and culturally significant option. Its deep connection to the land and the people of North-East India makes it a meaningful choice for artisans who wish to preserve traditional dyeing techniques while embracing modern sustainability trends. The result is a range of textiles that are not only beautiful and durable but also steeped in cultural heritage.
 

Gum of Lac Insect Dye (Bush Pink)

State: Assam, Meghalaya

The Gum of the Lac insect (Kerria lacca), more commonly known for its use in producing shellac, is also a valuable source of natural dye. The lac dye produces shades ranging from soft pink to deep crimson, with the most popular being a bush pink color. This dye is particularly significant in Assam and Meghalaya, where traditional handloom artisans have long utilized it to create vibrant textiles. The use of lac insect dye exemplifies the region's resourcefulness, turning a naturally occurring resin into a sustainable and eco-friendly colorant for fabrics.

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Gum of Lac Insect Dye (Bush Pink)

Introduction:

The Gum of the Lac insect (Kerria lacca), more commonly known for its use in producing shellac, is also a valuable source of natural dye. The lac dye produces shades ranging from soft pink to deep crimson, with the most popular being a bush pink color. This dye is particularly significant in Assam and Meghalaya, where traditional handloom artisans have long utilized it to create vibrant textiles. The use of lac insect dye exemplifies the region's resourcefulness, turning a naturally occurring resin into a sustainable and eco-friendly colorant for fabrics.

Description:

Lac dye is derived from the secretion of the lac insect, which forms a resinous shell around itself as it inhabits the branches of host trees. The process of harvesting lac dye begins with collecting the resin, also known as "sticklac," which is then processed to remove impurities and extract the color. The resin is ground into a powder, which is then dissolved in water to create the dye solution. This water-soluble dye can range in color from light pink to deep red, depending on the concentration and mordant used.
In Assam and Meghalaya, artisans traditionally use lac dye to impart shades of pink and red onto natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. The dyeing process begins by preparing the fabric with a mordant, such as alum or tin, which helps the lac dye bind to the fibers. Mordants not only improve the dye's colorfastness but can also influence the final color. For instance, using alum produces a soft pink, while tin can intensify the color to a richer, more vibrant hue.
The fabric is then immersed in the lac dye bath, where it is left to soak until the desired color saturation is achieved. Depending on the concentration of the dye bath, artisans can produce a wide range of shades, from delicate bush pink to bolder, deeper tones. After dyeing, the fabric is rinsed to remove any excess dye and then hung to dry in a shaded area, as direct sunlight can cause the color to fade.
Lac insect dye is particularly prized for its vibrancy and versatility. The bush pink color, a soft, warm tone, is frequently used in traditional garments and accessories, adding a touch of natural elegance to the fabric. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, lac dye is also environmentally friendly, as it is derived from a renewable natural source and does not require the use of harmful chemicals in its production.
The production of lac dye is deeply intertwined with the cultural and economic fabric of Assam and Meghalaya. Lac cultivation, known as lac culture, provides livelihood opportunities for many rural communities in these states, where it is harvested not only for dye but also for shellac production. This makes the use of lac dye a sustainable practice that supports local economies while preserving traditional dyeing techniques.
Moreover, the cultural significance of lac dye extends beyond its use in textiles. In Assam, for instance, lac-dyed fabrics are often associated with religious and ceremonial occasions, where the color pink symbolizes love, warmth, and femininity. Lac dye is also considered auspicious in certain tribal communities, where it is used in traditional attire worn during festivals and celebrations.
As natural dyeing practices gain popularity in the global fashion industry, lac dye from Assam and Meghalaya is increasingly recognized for its eco-friendly properties and rich cultural heritage. The soft bush pink color produced by lac dye is highly sought after by designers looking for unique, sustainable alternatives to synthetic dyes. By continuing to use lac dye, artisans in the region are helping to preserve both the environment and the ancient traditions of natural dyeing.
 

Brazil Wood Dye

State: Manipur, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh

Brazil wood (Caesalpinia echinata) is a tropical hardwood tree known for its use in producing vibrant red dyes. Though the tree is native to South America, the dye it produces has been historically traded and used in many parts of the world, including the North-Eastern states of India. In Manipur, Assam, and Arunachal Pradesh, artisans use Brazil wood dye to create rich shades of red and pink in their textiles. This natural dye is celebrated for its intensity and brilliance, making it a popular choice for traditional garments and handloom products in the region.

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Brazil Wood Dye

Introduction:

Brazil wood (Caesalpinia echinata) is a tropical hardwood tree known for its use in producing vibrant red dyes. Though the tree is native to South America, the dye it produces has been historically traded and used in many parts of the world, including the North-Eastern states of India. In Manipur, Assam, and Arunachal Pradesh, artisans use Brazil wood dye to create rich shades of red and pink in their textiles. This natural dye is celebrated for its intensity and brilliance, making it a popular choice for traditional garments and handloom products in the region.

Description:

Brazil wood dye is obtained from the heartwood of the tree, which is ground into a fine powder and then boiled to extract the vibrant red pigment. The resulting dye solution is a deep red, which can be applied to a variety of natural fibers such as cotton, silk, and wool. Depending on the strength of the dye bath and the mordant used, the colors produced by Brazil wood dye can range from soft pink to deep crimson.
The process of dyeing with Brazil wood begins with preparing the fabric. In traditional North-Eastern dyeing techniques, artisans often pre-mordant the fabric with alum or tin to help the dye adhere to the fibers and improve colorfastness. Once the fabric is prepared, it is soaked in the Brazil wood dye bath, allowing the rich red color to penetrate the fibers. The fabric is then left in the dye bath for several hours or even days, depending on the desired intensity of the color.
Brazil wood dye is known for its brilliance and saturation, producing colors that are both eye-catching and long-lasting. However, like many natural dyes, it can be sensitive to sunlight and may fade over time without proper care. To protect the color, dyed fabrics are typically dried in the shade and stored in cool, dark places. In Manipur and Assam, where Brazil wood dye is commonly used in handloom textiles, artisans often combine it with other natural dyes such as turmeric or indigo to create unique color blends and patterns.
In the cultural context of North-East India, Brazil wood dye has significant symbolic meaning. The red and pink tones produced by the dye are often associated with strength, vitality, and prosperity. These colors are frequently used in traditional garments worn during festivals and important ceremonies. In Manipur, for instance, red is a prominent color in traditional dance costumes, where it symbolizes power and energy. Similarly, in Assam, red textiles are often worn during weddings and other auspicious occasions.
The use of Brazil wood dye also reflects the region’s commitment to sustainability. As a natural dye, Brazil wood is free from the harmful chemicals found in synthetic dyes, making it an environmentally friendly option for textile production. Artisans in the North-East who use Brazil wood dye are part of a growing movement towards eco-friendly fashion, promoting the use of natural resources in a way that respects both the environment and traditional craftsmanship.
Despite the challenges posed by modern industrialization and the availability of synthetic dyes, Brazil wood dye continues to hold an important place in the handloom industry of North-East India. Its vibrant colors and cultural significance make it a favorite among both artisans and consumers, who value the authenticity and sustainability of natural dyes. As interest in sustainable fashion grows, Brazil wood dye is poised to remain a key player in the region’s textile heritage, providing a rich, natural alternative to synthetic colorants.
 

Brazil Wood + Turmeric Dye (Saffron)

State: Manipur, Assam

The combination of Brazil wood and turmeric dyes creates a stunning saffron hue that blends the rich red of Brazil wood with the vibrant golden yellow of turmeric. In the North-Eastern states of Manipur and Assam, this unique dyeing method is embraced by artisans for its ability to produce a bright, eye-catching color that carries both cultural and spiritual significance. The saffron hue is particularly revered in India, symbolizing purity, energy, and strength. This natural dye combination is often used in traditional garments, adding a layer of beauty and depth to handloom products, reflecting the natural environment and heritage of the region.

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Brazil Wood + Turmeric Dye (Saffron)

Introduction:

The combination of Brazil wood and turmeric dyes creates a stunning saffron hue that blends the rich red of Brazil wood with the vibrant golden yellow of turmeric. In the North-Eastern states of Manipur and Assam, this unique dyeing method is embraced by artisans for its ability to produce a bright, eye-catching color that carries both cultural and spiritual significance. The saffron hue is particularly revered in India, symbolizing purity, energy, and strength. This natural dye combination is often used in traditional garments, adding a layer of beauty and depth to handloom products, reflecting the natural environment and heritage of the region.

Description:

The process of producing saffron dye from Brazil wood and turmeric is both time-intensive and delicate. Brazil wood, a tropical hardwood, provides a deep red pigment, while turmeric, a spice derived from the root of the Curcuma longa plant, offers a bright golden-yellow hue. Both dyes are prepared separately before they are combined. Artisans begin by boiling the Brazil wood chips or powder in water, extracting the red pigment over a few hours. Simultaneously, turmeric rhizomes are dried and ground into a powder, which is also boiled to extract its vibrant yellow dye.
Once both dye solutions are ready, they are carefully mixed in various proportions depending on the desired shade of saffron. The process of blending the two dyes is delicate, as the turmeric’s intense yellow can easily dominate the Brazil wood’s red. Artisans must carefully adjust the ratio of the dyes, testing the blend on sample fabrics to achieve the perfect balance. The final result is a radiant saffron color that ranges from a light, orangey yellow to a deep, more reddish-orange, depending on the specific dyeing method used.
The fabric to be dyed is usually pre-treated with a mordant, such as alum or iron, to help the dye adhere to the fibers and improve color retention. After this, the fabric is dipped into the dye mixture and left to soak for several hours, allowing the pigments to fully saturate the fibers. The dyeing process is repeated multiple times for deeper, more intense hues. Once the dyeing is complete, the fabric is rinsed and left to dry in the shade to prevent fading caused by direct sunlight.
In Manipur and Assam, saffron-colored fabrics hold cultural importance, particularly in religious and spiritual contexts. The color saffron is closely associated with Hinduism, symbolizing renunciation, divinity, and purity. It is often seen in traditional attire worn during festivals, ceremonies, and other significant events. The brightness of the saffron hue represents vitality and energy, making it an ideal choice for vibrant handloom products such as shawls, scarves, and garments used in celebrations.
From a sustainability standpoint, the use of Brazil wood and turmeric dyes is part of the region’s commitment to eco-friendly and natural dyeing practices. Both plants are renewable resources, and the dyeing process is free from harmful chemicals, contributing to the growing global movement toward sustainable fashion. By choosing to use natural dyes like Brazil wood and turmeric, artisans in North-East India are not only preserving traditional craftsmanship but also promoting a more environmentally conscious approach to textile production.
The appeal of saffron-colored textiles extends beyond their visual beauty. The richness of the color, combined with the symbolism it carries, makes these fabrics highly sought after by consumers who appreciate the connection between culture, nature, and sustainability. As natural dyes continue to gain popularity in the modern fashion world, the saffron dye created from Brazil wood and turmeric remains a striking example of the vibrant possibilities offered by traditional dyeing techniques.
 

Brazil Wood + Charcoal Dye (Purple Pink)

State: Nagaland, Assam

The combination of Brazil wood and charcoal dyes creates an exquisite purple-pink hue that merges the deep red of Brazil wood with the cool, dark tones of charcoal. This blend is particularly valued in Nagaland and Assam, where artisans use it to create textiles that feature rich, complex colors with both visual and cultural significance. The dyeing process highlights the ingenuity of North-Eastern artisans, who skillfully mix natural dyes to produce a palette that reflects the region’s diverse landscapes. The purple-pink shade is prized for its uniqueness and is frequently used in traditional garments and handloom products.

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Brazil Wood + Charcoal Dye (Purple Pink)

Introduction:

The combination of Brazil wood and charcoal dyes creates an exquisite purple-pink hue that merges the deep red of Brazil wood with the cool, dark tones of charcoal. This blend is particularly valued in Nagaland and Assam, where artisans use it to create textiles that feature rich, complex colors with both visual and cultural significance. The dyeing process highlights the ingenuity of North-Eastern artisans, who skillfully mix natural dyes to produce a palette that reflects the region’s diverse landscapes. The purple-pink shade is prized for its uniqueness and is frequently used in traditional garments and handloom products.

Description:

To create the striking purple-pink color, artisans in Nagaland and Assam use a combination of Brazil wood, known for its vibrant red tones, and charcoal, which offers a range of black and grey shades. Brazil wood dye is extracted from the heartwood of the tree by boiling it to release the red pigment, while charcoal is produced by burning organic matter, such as wood, and grinding it into a fine powder. The charcoal is then mixed with water to create a dark, inky dye solution.
The process begins with dyeing the fabric in the Brazil wood solution, allowing the red pigment to deeply penetrate the fibers. Depending on the desired shade, the fabric may be dipped multiple times to achieve a more intense red. Once the red base is set, the fabric is transferred to the charcoal dye bath, where the cool, dark tones blend with the red to create a distinctive purple-pink hue. The interplay between the warmth of the Brazil wood and the coolness of the charcoal results in a color that is both bold and subtle, with varying undertones of pink and purple depending on the dyeing method.
The key to achieving the perfect purple-pink shade lies in balancing the two dyes. Artisans carefully monitor the concentration of each dye and the number of dips to ensure that the colors blend harmoniously. Too much charcoal can overpower the Brazil wood, resulting in a darker, more muted tone, while too little may leave the fabric too red. The use of natural mordants, such as alum or iron, helps to fix the dye and enhance the vibrancy of the final color.
This dyeing technique is especially popular in Nagaland, where bold colors are often used in traditional garments and accessories. The purple-pink hue produced by this combination is associated with creativity, individuality, and cultural identity. In Assam, the color is similarly valued for its uniqueness and is often used in handloom textiles such as shawls, scarves, and wraps, where it adds a modern twist to traditional patterns.
The use of Brazil wood and charcoal dyes is also deeply rooted in the region’s sustainable dyeing practices. Both dyes are derived from natural, renewable resources, and the dyeing process is free from synthetic chemicals, making it an environmentally friendly alternative to industrial dyes. By using locally sourced materials, artisans in North-East India contribute to the preservation of their natural environment while promoting eco-friendly textile production.
In addition to its environmental benefits, the purple-pink hue created by Brazil wood and charcoal is highly versatile. The color can be paired with a wide range of other natural dyes, such as indigo or turmeric, to create complex, layered textiles that reflect the diverse cultural heritage of the North-East. The unique blend of colors also makes these textiles highly sought after by consumers who appreciate handmade, eco-friendly products with a story behind them.
As the demand for sustainable fashion continues to grow, the purple-pink hue produced by Brazil wood and charcoal stands out as a testament to the creativity and skill of North-Eastern artisans. By combining these two natural dyes, they create a color that is both beautiful and meaningful, offering a sustainable alternative to mass-produced, synthetic textiles while preserving the rich traditions of their craft.
 

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Natural Dye

Pure, safe and Naturally Vibrant

Turmeric Dye

State: Assam (Common in other North-Eastern states as well)

Tea Waste Dye

State: Assam

Onion Skin Dye

State: Manipur, Nagaland, Assam

Indigo Dye

State: Assam, Manipur, Nagaland

Indigo + Onion Skin Dye (Olive Green)

State: Assam, Manipur, Nagaland

Charcoal Dye

State: Nagaland, Manipur, Assam

Gum of Lac Insect Dye (Bush Pink)

State: Assam, Meghalaya

Brazil Wood Dye

State: Manipur, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh

Brazil Wood + Turmeric Dye (Saffron)

State: Manipur, Assam

Brazil Wood + Charcoal Dye (Purple Pink)

State: Nagaland, Assam